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Choosing a pickleball paddle right now feels like trying to judge a car by its horsepower. Even between cars, you have different weight distribution, tires, and suspension technology, but because some numbers are higher than others doesn’t lead to faster lap times. You can have two cars with the same stats, but one might still handle like a shopping cart.
Stats Don’t Tell the Whole Story
Just because a paddle scores higher on some stat doesn’t automatically make it the holy grail of paddles. A paddle’s performance is influenced by way more than what current metrics can capture, and every player’s experience is different.
That said, the measurements we can take give players a helpful foundation. Think of it as a way to set expectations–like knowing if a pair of shoes runs narrow before you try them on. It’s not the whole story, but it’s a solid starting point to help you make smarter choices on the court.
Let’s start by going through what each paddle metric means.
What is Static Weight?
The static weight refers to how heavy a paddle is when it’s not in motion – measured in ounces.
When ordering a paddle, the static weight may vary slightly due to minor inconsistencies in the manufacturing process. This is why manufacturers typically provide a weight range (eg., 7.8 - 8.2 oz) rather than a single precise weight. Some paddle companies even allow players to request specific paddle weights within the range.
Most players prefer lighter static weights because they allow for more customization – like adding lead tape – to adjust it to their liking.
What is Swing Weight?
Swing weight refers to how heavy it feels when you swing it. The higher the swing weight number, the heavier it will feel. Unlike static weight, swing weight focuses on the momentum required to move the paddle.
Players will prefer paddles with lower swing weights, which helps you be faster at the net and reduce fatigue.
How to read swing weight numbers
Less than 115: Fast
115 - 120: Medium
Greater than 120: Slow
What is Twist Weight?
Twist weight refers to the paddle’s ability to resist twisting or rotating in the hand when it hits the ball.
In nerdier terms, it measures the torsional stability. Higher twist weights = more stability.
The more a paddle twists on contact–especially away from the sweet spot (aka off-center shots)–the more power, control, and spin you lose.
Higher twist weights typically come at the cost of less maneuverability, making it harder to swing. More on this later.
How to read twist weight numbers:
- High Twist Weight: 6.6+ (stable, big sweet spot)
- Mid Twist Weight: 6.0 - 6.59
- Low Twist Weight: Less than 6.0 (less stable, smaller sweet spot)
What is Balance Point?
Balance point is the point along the length of the paddle where the weight is split evenly between the head and the handle.
In other words, it’s the single point at which you can balance the paddle on your finger.
The higher the balance point number, the less maneuverable it will feel because the weight is concentrated toward the head (head-heavy). This adds inertia to your shots, but it will feel heavier during swings.
How to read balance point numbers:
Ranges by John Kew
Greater than 24.3 Head heavy, less maneuverable
23.7-24.2 Middle weight
Less than 23.7 Head light, more maneuverable
What is Spin?
Spin refers to ball revolutions per minute (RPM), influencing the ability to shape the ball at higher speeds. A paddle’s grit, surface material, core makeup, and technique determine a spin. Pickleball tech has evolved to a point where most modern paddles clock impressive RPMs with minimal differences between them.
Spin, for now, is one of the least reliable metrics out there—hence the wildly different numbers you’ll see from reviewers, as if they’re all playing with entirely different paddles. To really get a sense of how well a paddle generates spin, you’ll need to compare those spin numbers against other paddles within the reviewer’s database.
What is Maneuverability Rating?
Maneuverability Rating is a 0-100 score that reflects how quick a paddle feels, based on a weighted formula considering static weight, swing weight, twist weight, and balance point. We often describe this as "hand speed." A lower score means the paddle feels quicker and more agile, while a higher score indicates a slower, less maneuverable feel.
Maneuverability Rating translates objective data into a paddle's subjective feel. Developed over six months with input from top reviewers and other respected minds in the space, the formula is helpful, but it's not an exact science.
How to read maneuverability rating:
The typical score range is 0-100. Paddles can score below 0 or above 100, but only as extreme outliers. A stock paddle with perfectly average maneuverability would score 50.
Avg Stock Elongated: 58.6
Avg Stock Hybrid: 49.6
Avg Stock Standard: 38.1
Avg Stock Wide Body: 29.1
The Maneuverability Rating is not publicly available, yet. Currently, Louis from Pickleball Pursuit and Dustin from Pickleball Medicine use it in their reviews. There may be a public database and calculator in the future, with more reviewers incorporating it into their reviews and databases.
Stats that aren’t measured by reviewers right now
Vibration Frequency: paddle stiffness and may buzz in your hand. Represents how many times per second a free-standing racket will bend back and forth (Hz) when hit by a ball (in Padel)
PBCor: The Paddle/Ball Coefficient of Restitution (PBCoR) measures how much power a paddle can generate by calculating energy loss during impact. Basically, how efficiently it bounces the ball back. Developed by USAP, SFIA, and equipment manufacturers, it’s the same concept used in golf (clubface spring) and baseball (bat pop). The exact formula is still a mystery until USAP releases more information.
Dwell time: the amount of time a ball clings to a paddle before it yeets itself off the surface. Reviewers can only describe it by feel, using vague terms like “short” or “long,” which, while nice, isn’t exactly helpful if you’re trying to nerd out with hard data.
Customizing Your Paddle: How Weight Affects Performance
Throat
Adding weight to the throat increases handle weight and enhances stability, especially for paddles with pronounced tapered designs.
Bottom Corners
Adding weight to the bottom corners of the paddle minimally increases power, improves stability without changing the stock balance, and expands the sweet spot.
Sides (3&9 o’clock)
Adding weight to the sides increases stability, expands the sweet spot, and increases power and plow-through.
Top Corners
Adding weight to the top corners increases power but reduces hand speed.
Top (12 o’clock)
Adding weight at 12 o’clock boosts power but reduces hand speed. Generally, the tradeoff is rarely worth putting it here unless there’s a dead spot towards the top of the paddle.
Handle (Augie Ge Method):
Augie demonstrates how he sets up his Vatic Pro Prism V7 on his Instagram.
- Unwrap the stock grip, but allow the strip to still be attached at the buttcap
- Use 0.5g/inch tungsten tape, 7-9 inches on each side
- Start above the buttcap on the side of the handles, and up along the throat of the paddle
- Optional: add weight on the top corners to balance out (only recommended for light stock paddles)
When to use: When a paddle has a low stock weight, head-heavy, needs more stability and maneuverability.
Slyce Cap or Flickweight
Slyce Caps and Flickweights add weight to the handle’s base, shifting the balance closer to your hand. This makes the paddle easier to maneuver but doesn’t actually reduce swing weight (you can never reduce swing weight by adding weight anywhere).
This misconception is exactly why maneuverability rating is essential. None of the individual metrics can tell the whole story on their own.
When to use: When a paddle feels too head-heavy, a paddle has a high maneuverability rating.
Hesacore and Ethos Undergrips
Hesacore and Ethos undergrips replace the stock grip with silicone grooves that absorb shock, and reduce vibration while making the handle easier to grip. These help with tennis elbow and wrist tendonitis as well. Since these are often heavier than the weight of a stock grip, they can also act like a Slyce Cap or Flickweight to improve maneuverability.
When to use: If your paddle feels too head-heavy, the grip is too narrow, or vibrations are bothersome
About the Author: Justin Barton
Justin Barton is the founder of Pickleball etc., a consulting business that helps pickleball brands thrive with operational insights, R&D, and product testing. With a background in small business consulting, Justin leverages his industry knowledge to help clients improve their products and expand their market presence. He also co-hosts the Pickleball Pursuit podcast, staying engaged with the latest trends and developments in the sport.